Scarecrow Watering Can

By  Sue Beckerton 

  • Scarecrow Watering Can


  • Half Basket (#34710355) (Painter’s Paradise)
  • Americana Acrylic Paints*: Antique Gold; Burnt Orange; Burnt Umber; Cashmere Beige; Deep Midnight Blue; French Grey Blue; Light Avocado; Light Buttermilk; Milk Chocolate; Mocha; Payne’s Grey; Russet; Sable Brown; Soft Black; Warm White


  • Black Gold paintbrushes (Dynasty): Series 206: Shaders; Flat Wash Glaze, 3/4”; Chisel Blender, #2; Round, #1; Liner, #1; Script Liner, 10/0, 20/0; Fan; Tooth, 1/2”; Wave; Oval Wash; Decorators: Round Dry Brush, Series 100; Mini Mop, Series 400; Faux Squirrel Oval Wash (1827OV)
  • All-Purpose Sealer*
  • Interior/Exterior Matte Varnish*
  • Laurie Speltz’s Instant Images Stencil: Floral
  • Wet palette
  • Fine sanding sponges

Pattern - Scarecrow Watering Can

  • Preparation
  • 1. Sand, wipe off dust and seal with APS. Print and cut out pattern. Transfer design. Randomly stencil words and flower in back ground, with Burnt Orange. When doing so, carefully place stencils around design so words are easy to read. Apply only one coat, and don't be overly concerned about opaqueness, or perfection. Sand to distress, if desired.
  • Lettering
  • 1. Basecoat "Fall" lettering Burnt Orange. Add pinstripes with Antique Gold and Light Avocado. Float top of letters with Russet, and bottom with Antique Gold. Outline top with Soft Black.
  • Scarecrow
  • 1. Basecoat hat Antique Gold, face Cashmere Beige, hatband and shirt French Grey Blue, inside sleeves and center strip Deep Midnight Blue and wooden arms Sable Brown. Transfer details.
  • 2. For hat, highlight with a crosshatch pattern in a brush mix of Antique Gold and Warm White, using 1/4" filbert tooth. Further highlight with float of Warm White. Float shades with Milk Chocolate. Float over odd shade with tints of Burnt Orange. Float shades on hatband with Deep Midnight Blue.
  • Face
  • 1. Float around face and neck with Burnt Umber, using #14, and a wide load. Pleats around neck are done using #6, with a narrow load. Dry brush highlights on pleats with Warm White, using chisel blender. Line in pleats and rope around neck with Soft Black, using liner. Dry brush cheeks Russet. Base eyes, eyebrow and mouth Soft Black and nose Russet. Float C strokes along bottom of eyes with French Grey Blue. Highlight with a dot of Warm White. Float nose with Soft Black. Float highlight with Mocha.
  • Straw
  • 1. Stroke on many stands of Straw with Burnt Umber. Highlight with a brush mix of Brunt Umber and Antique Gold. Highlight once more with a brush mix of Light Buttermilk. Float shades along edges with Soft Black.
  • 2. For hair bands, basecoat Burnt Orange. Add pinstripes in Soft Black. Float with Russet. Dry brush a soft highlight with Cashmere Beige.
  • Shirt
  • 1. Add pinstripes with Deep Midnight Blue, Sable Brown and Antique Gold. Float deep midnight areas with Payne's Grey. Dry brush a soft highlight on center strip with French Grey Blue. Float to shade shirt with Deep Midnight Blue. Dry brush soft highlights with Light Buttermilk. Base buttons Antique Gold.
  • Wooden Arms
  • 1. Add small wood grain with Burnt Umber and Soft Black. Highlight odd one with Cashmere Beige. Float shades with Burnt Umber. Fill in ends with Soft Black.
  • Finishing
  • 1. Spatter a fine mist with Soft Black and then again with Light Buttermilk. Let dry and apply 2 to 3 coats of matte finish varnish. Fill can with dried fall flowers, silk flowers or potpourri.
  • Designer Tips For Success
  • 1. Use #10, #14 or 3/4" flat to do most floats, and soften all floats by gently pouncing mop brush over the water's edge. Work like this, until its almost dried.
  • 2. All line work is done using either the 10/0 or 18/0, always thin the paint to ink consistency and fully load the liner. Always "blot" off the tip on paper towel to remove the bulk of it. This helps to "sharpen" the tip to a nice pointed end.
  • 3. For raking, always fully load a rake, with thinned paint. Flick tips of bristles on a hard surface like the edge of your palette to remove the immediate build up of paint and to open up bristles. Flip your piece upside down and stroke towards yourself. Rest your wrist on the table, hold the brush straight up, touch the base of the area, and ‘flick" the brush towards you, and pivoting the tip of the brush handle, away from you. Let bristles taper off naturally as you want to see movement coming from the tip of the handle. Do not move your whole arm, just the two fingers should be doing all the work.
  • 4. To tint, load 3/4" flat with color as if to float, blending on palette so that its well loaded for a float. Tap in wishy-washy movements, in soft "C" strokes, wiggles, and squiggles always keeping the water side of the brush on the outside of the tint area. Also, make sure that you keep the water side of the brush clean and clear of paint. Keep your shapes interesting by moving around in different shapes. Try and avoid a repetitive pattern. Use your mop to soften edges of tints, working mostly in the water area, and not so much in the paint. Immediately wipe mops dry on paper towel. Take some time to practice.
  • 5. To spatter, load fan brush with thinned paint, holding brush approximately 8" away, leaning it downwards towards your surface, gently tap handle using another brush, or palette knife, and specks fly all over.