Elegant Rose Necklace Case
- Jansen Art Traditions Acrylics: Burnt Umber, Hansa Yellow, Napthol Red, Napthol Red Light, Quinacridone Violet, Raw Sienna, Titanium White, Ultramarine Blue, Warm White
- Brushes: Jansen Art Traditions: Short Liner, Series JAB17, #1
- Brushes: Scharff: White Nylon Angular, Series 330, 1/8”, 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”; White Nylon Filbert, Series 305, #2, #4, #6, #8, #10; White Nylon Liner, Series 340, #10/0, #1
- Brushes: Loew-Cornell: All-Purpose White Nylon, Series 1170, 1”, 2”, 3”
- Jansen Art Traditions Mediums: Multi-Surface Sealer; Glazing Medium; Extender & Blending Medium; Satin Varnish; Light Primer
- Necklace cabinet from Patricia
- 1. Remove drawer from cabinet. Use 180 grit sandpaper to lightly sand all
surfaces; wipe dust. Use 2” all-purpose
brush to apply sealer to all surfaces.
Let dry, sand, and repeat process. Use
painter’s tape to cover hinges; secure
in place. Use 2” brush and equal mix
of Light Primer and Soft White mix to
base entire cabinet. Let dry and repeat.
For drawer, use mix of Raw Sienna +
Burnt Umber + Warm White + Light Primer (1:1/4:1:1/4) to base two coats. Allow surfaces to cure overnight.
- 2. On palette paper, make three separate
large piles of Soft White mix, Raw Sienna, and glaze medium mix. Add six drops Burnt Umber onto palette. Dress 1”
all-purpose brush with glaze medium mix; dip brush into Soft White mix, then
dip one corner into Raw Sienna and a
little touch of Burnt Umber to other
side. Slip-slap entire cabinet (omitting
drawer) starting from back and working
to front for a soft faux look. Let dry and repeat. Remove tape from hinges. (Note: Use cotton swab and rubbing alcohol to remove paint if needed.)
- 3. Use mix of Raw Sienna + Warm White + Burnt Umber (3:1:1/2) to paint drawer and knobs; add touch Soft White mix to knobs.
- 4. Print out patterns; reverse pattern for doors. Transfer basic details onto doors and inside cabinet.
- 1. Note: Use a toothpick for all “tch. of”
Color Chart - Soft White
- 1. Titanium White + Burnt Umber + Raw Sienna (8:1:3)
Color Chart - Roses
- 1. Mixer: Napthol Red + Napthol Red Lt. (2:1) + drop Quinacridone Violet + drop Soft White + drop Raw Sienna + drop Burnt Umber
- 2. Med. Value: Mixer + Soft White (1:2) + drop Raw Sienna
- 3. Low Light: Med. Value + Soft White (1:11/2)
- 4. Light: Low Light + Soft White (1:1-1/2)
- 5. High Light: Light + Soft White (2:1)
- 6. High Dark: Med. Value + Mixer (1:1) + tch. of Burnt Umber + tch. of Violet
- 7. Dark: High Dark + Mixer + Burnt Umber + Violet (1:1:1/4:1/4)
- 8. Low Dark: Dark + Mixer + Violet + Ultramarine Blue (1:1/2:1/2:1/4) + tch. of Burnt Umber
Color Chart - Small Flower Buds
- 1. Mixer: Ultramarine Blue + 2 drops Soft White
Color Chart - Leaves
- 1. Med. Value: Ultramarine Blue + Hansa Yellow (2:1-1/2) + drop Soft White + drop Burnt Umber
- 2. Low Light: Med. Value + Hansa Yellow + Soft White (1:1:1/4) + tch. of Burnt Umber
- 3. Light: Low Light + Hansa Yellow + Soft White (1:1:1)
- 4. High Light: Light + Soft White (1/2:1) + tch. of Hansa Yellow
- 5. Dark: Med. Value + Ultramarine Blue + Burnt Umber (1:1/2:1/4)
Color Chart - Vines
- 1. Mixer: Burnt Umber + 1 drop Soft White
- 2. Med. Value: Mixer + Soft White (1:1/2)
- 3. Light: Med. Value + Soft White (1:1)
Color Chart - Other Mixes
- 1. Payne Gray: Ultramarine Blue + Burnt Umber (1:1/2)
- 2. Glaze Medium: 3 Glazing Medium + 3 drops Extender + little water for creamy texture
- 1. Refer to Painting Stages.
- 1. Each side-load layer should be
transparent. Repeating another layer
of same value will deepen and soften
brush strokes. Blend colors well on
palette for soft side-load. Test first
layer on paper. If it appears too heavy
add a little more glaze medium mix to mixture. Lights and darks are gradually enforced in each stage.
- 1. use appropriate color values for each subject
- 2. Use three thin paint coats allowing pattern lines to slightly show through basecoat. Use #6 filbert to base back roses Med. Value. Base roses at top and in front Low Light value. For leaves, use #4 filbert for small leaves and #6 filbert for big leaves; base each Low Light value. For small flower buds, use #2 filbert to base with Mixer. Use short liner to base some vines with
Mixer; use leaf Med. Value for other vines.
- 1. Back Roses: Apply thin coat Extender
over roses; gently wipe excess with
paper towel. Dip 1/4” angular into glaze
medium mix, then dip toe into Dark
value; blend well on palette. Starting at side corners of back roses, walk brush out a little towards centers; use toe of brush to tap a little color in centers where turned petals are located. Tap very lightly with clean filbert to soften (Note: Use filbert to soften after each side-loaded layer is applied.). For turned petals, dip 1/4” angular into glaze medium mix, then dip toe into Low Light value; start from center and float onto curve of each folded petal. Use tip of angle brush and Low Light value to tap two dots in center bottom of back roses; pat blend with filbert.
- 2. Top and Front Roses: For top roses, dip
3/8” angular into glaze medium mix; blend into brush. Dip toe into Med. Value and shade starting from corner areas. Walk out float on center bud of flower. Tap float into indentations. Proceed from left bottom petal ending on right side of rose.
- 3. Use 1/2” angular to shade front roses
with Med. Value. Start with first petal
standing alone. Side-load a little from end of petal to cup. Walk out float halfway onto petal. Smooth with filbert. Add little indentations with tip of angular brush and pat blend in place. Cup is side-loaded from bottom to top; walk out float to center. Use 1/4” angular for tight shading areas.
- 4. Use 1/4” angular to apply Light value to
top and front roses. Walk out floats on
center bud, front standing petal, and cup of front roses. Start with outer bottom petal for top rose. For front rose, start with first petal. Apply Light values opposite Dark values.
- 5. Use hair dryer to heat set. Repeat entire “First Stage” process for back, top, and front roses.
- 6. Leaves and Rose Buds: Use 3/8” angular
and Dark value to shade along bottom
of each leaf; use 1/4” angular for smaller leaves. Lighten front ends of leaves with Low Light value. Use filbert to smooth out stroke lines. Heat set. Repeat entire process. Use 1/4” angular and Dark value to shade green rose buds.
- 7. Vines: Make two small piles: use short
liner to scoop Low Light value from
leaves mix and a little Medium value
from vine mix; add extender to both
piles for inky consistency. Use brush mix of each to lighten thick vines. Heat set.
- 8. Use #10 filbert to apply Glazing Medium over painted areas. Heat set.
- 1. Lights and darks will be enforced in
same areas, but not as much.
- 2. Back Roses: Apply thin coat Extender
over roses. Dip 1/4” angular into glaze
medium mix, then dip toe into Low Dark value; blend well on palette. Shade corners; do not walk out, but rather pat blend with filbert. Use tip of
brush to apply a little shading in middle indentation of where petals are turned.
- 3. Wipe excess paint onto paper towel; dip dirty brush into glaze medium mix and blend on palette to create sheer tint. Use tint to start from center top of each turned petal and float across to end. Use Light value to lighten along bottom of each turned petal starting from center and working half way across.
- 4. Top and Front Roses: Do not walk out
floated color. For top roses, side-load 3/8” angular with Dark value; float corners and pat blend lightly. For front roses, use 1/2” angular to shade with Dark value. Start with first petal standing alone; float a little way from end of petal down to cup. For cup, side-load from bottom of petal to under turned petal. Use 1/4” angular for tight corners. Do not enforce indentations. Use 1/4” angular to apply light value to top and front roses.
- 5. To smooth out separation between shaded and highlighted areas, prepare a color glaze: add a little water to Glazing
Medium for creamy texture then add a
touch of Med. Value. Use #10 filbert to
apply mix over top and front roses. Heat
set. (Note: Roses will appear a little darker.)
- 6. For top roses, dip toe of 3/8” angular
into Very Dark value; deepen corners
starting with bottom left petal. For front roses, use 1/2” angular to side-load Very Dark value from top of single petal down to cup. Side-load one side of cup and pat blend. Use 1/4” angular for tight corners. Apply Light value to top and front roses. Heat set.
- 7. Apply Quinacridone Violet glaze over
back, top, and front roses. Heat set. For back roses, float Low Light value halfway onto turned petals. For top and front roses, float Light value; apply a little into centers of previously applied light areas from last layer. Heat set.
- 8. Leaves, Rose Buds, and Vines: Apply thin coat Extender over each. Use Dark
value to shade back and tight corners
of leaves, along one side of vines, and
one side of buds. Lighten front parts of
leaves, vines, and buds with Light value. Use glaze medium mix and Med. Value to apply glaze over leaves and buds.
- 1. Back Roses: Dip toe of 1/4” angular into Low Dark value; shade corners and
deepen middle indentation of where
petals are turned. Lighten turned petals
with Light value; only go one-fourth of
- 2. Top and Front Roses: For top roses, dip toe of 3/8” angular in Low Dark value; shade corner areas only. For front roses, use 1/2” angular to shade with Low Dark value. Start with first petal standing alone; float value back to cup. Use toe of brush to float a little value under cup. Smooth out with filbert. Shade corners and tight areas. Use 1/4” angular to apply Light value to top and front roses. Heat set.
- 3. Back, Top, and Front Roses: Dip 1/4” angular into glaze medium mix, then dip into Quinacridone Violet and into Payne
Gray; blend on palette for a dark violet. Float mix into indentations, corners, and along side bottom petal near leaves in back roses. Apply side-load to top and front roses. Deepen corners. Smooth with filbert. Use Light value for top and front roses. Heat set. Apply final glaze of Quinacridone Violet over back, top, and front roses. Heat set. Use 1/4” brush to float tint of Payne Gray in a few corners and near leaves on back roses. Enforce Light value just onto flap of turned petals. Apply soft tint of Payne Gray in some tight areas of top and front roses.
Apply highlights to center of light value areas applied in last layer.
- 4. If highlight and shading appear to strong, float in soft Quinacridone Violet over shading. Walk brush out to edges of light areas. Smooth with filbert if necessary; colors will appear to melt together.
- 5. Leaves, Buds, and Vines: Apply soft Payne Gray to a few leaves and tight areas. Float on buds and one side of stems. Add highlight value to middle of last layer of leaves and stems. Use #2 filbert and Burnt Umber to tint indentations on a few leaves.
- 1. Repeat entire process for rose. For
rosebud, use 1/4” angular to float High
Dark value along left side and bottom.
Side-load Low Light value at tip to
right side. Heat set. Dip brush into
Quinacridone Violet and Payne Gray and
side-load bottom of rosebud. Lighten
with Light value.
- 2. Use 1/8” angular to apply High Dark value to stem and leaves. Lighten with Low Light value. Heat set and repeat. Glaze with Med. Value. Side-load Payne Gray in some areas to deepen shadows. Lighten with Low Light value. Heat set. Add Light value to finish.
Small Flower Buds
- 1. Use Mixer and lighten with more Snow
White; use #4 filbert to highlight. Add water to Ultramarine Blue for inky consistency; use short liner to add “C” strokes at bottom of buds. Double-load #4 filbert with Low Light value and Med. Value. Use glaze medium mix to thin Burnt Umber to creamy texture;
line stems to darken
Shadow Vines and Buds
- 1. On palette paper, make two inky
consistency piles of Burnt Umber and
Med. Value from leaves. Use short liner
to add additional vines and buds.
- 1. Apply thin application of Glazing
Medium over front of box. Let dry.
Follow manufacturer’s directions to apply two varnish coats.