Pattern - Elegant Rose Necklace Case
- 1. Remove drawer from cabinet. Use 180 grit sandpaper to lightly sand all surfaces; wipe dust. Use 2" all-purpose brush to apply sealer to all surfaces. Let dry, sand, and repeat process. Use painter's tape to cover hinges; secure in place. Use 2" brush and equal mix of Light Primer and Soft White mix to base entire cabinet. Let dry and repeat. For drawer, use mix of Raw Sienna + Burnt Umber + Warm White + Light Primer (1:1/4:1:1/4) to base two coats. Allow surfaces to cure overnight.
- 2. On palette paper, make three separate large piles of Soft White mix, Raw Sienna, and glaze medium mix. Add six drops Burnt Umber onto palette. Dress 1" all-purpose brush with glaze medium mix; dip brush into Soft White mix, then dip one corner into Raw Sienna and a little touch of Burnt Umber to other side. Slip-slap entire cabinet (omitting drawer) starting from back and working to front for a soft faux look. Let dry and repeat. Remove tape from hinges. (Note: Use cotton swab and rubbing alcohol to remove paint if needed.)
- 3. Use mix of Raw Sienna + Warm White + Burnt Umber (3:1:1/2) to paint drawer and knobs; add touch Soft White mix to knobs.
- 4. Print out patterns; reverse pattern for doors. Transfer basic details onto doors and inside cabinet.
- Color Chart
- 1. Note: Use a toothpick for all "tch. of"
- Color Chart - Soft White
- 1. Titanium White + Burnt Umber + Raw Sienna (8:1:3)
- Color Chart - Roses
- 1. Mixer: Napthol Red + Napthol Red Lt. (2:1) + drop Quinacridone Violet + drop Soft White + drop Raw Sienna + drop Burnt Umber
- 2. Med. Value: Mixer + Soft White (1:2) + drop Raw Sienna
- 3. Low Light: Med. Value + Soft White (1:11/2)
- 4. Light: Low Light + Soft White (1:1-1/2)
- 5. High Light: Light + Soft White (2:1)
- 6. High Dark: Med. Value + Mixer (1:1) + tch. of Burnt Umber + tch. of Violet
- 7. Dark: High Dark + Mixer + Burnt Umber + Violet (1:1:1/4:1/4)
- 8. Low Dark: Dark + Mixer + Violet + Ultramarine Blue (1:1/2:1/2:1/4) + tch. of Burnt Umber
- Color Chart - Small Flower Buds
- 1. Mixer: Ultramarine Blue + 2 drops Soft White
- Color Chart - Leaves
- 1. Med. Value: Ultramarine Blue + Hansa Yellow (2:1-1/2) + drop Soft White + drop Burnt Umber
- 2. Low Light: Med. Value + Hansa Yellow + Soft White (1:1:1/4) + tch. of Burnt Umber
- 3. Light: Low Light + Hansa Yellow + Soft White (1:1:1)
- 4. High Light: Light + Soft White (1/2:1) + tch. of Hansa Yellow
- 5. Dark: Med. Value + Ultramarine Blue + Burnt Umber (1:1/2:1/4)
- Color Chart - Vines
- 1. Mixer: Burnt Umber + 1 drop Soft White
- 2. Med. Value: Mixer + Soft White (1:1/2)
- 3. Light: Med. Value + Soft White (1:1)
- Color Chart - Other Mixes
- 1. Payne Gray: Ultramarine Blue + Burnt Umber (1:1/2)
- 2. Glaze Medium: 3 Glazing Medium + 3 drops Extender + little water for creamy texture
- Painting Instructions
- 1. Refer to Painting Stages.
- Artist's Tips
- 1. Each side-load layer should be transparent. Repeating another layer of same value will deepen and soften brush strokes. Blend colors well on palette for soft side-load. Test first layer on paper. If it appears too heavy add a little more glaze medium mix to mixture. Lights and darks are gradually enforced in each stage.
- 1. use appropriate color values for each subject
- 2. Use three thin paint coats allowing pattern lines to slightly show through basecoat. Use #6 filbert to base back roses Med. Value. Base roses at top and in front Low Light value. For leaves, use #4 filbert for small leaves and #6 filbert for big leaves; base each Low Light value. For small flower buds, use #2 filbert to base with Mixer. Use short liner to base some vines with Mixer; use leaf Med. Value for other vines.
- First Stage
- 1. Back Roses: Apply thin coat Extender over roses; gently wipe excess with paper towel. Dip 1/4" angular into glaze medium mix, then dip toe into Dark value; blend well on palette. Starting at side corners of back roses, walk brush out a little towards centers; use toe of brush to tap a little color in centers where turned petals are located. Tap very lightly with clean filbert to soften (Note: Use filbert to soften after each side-loaded layer is applied.). For turned petals, dip 1/4" angular into glaze medium mix, then dip toe into Low Light value; start from center and float onto curve of each folded petal. Use tip of angle brush and Low Light value to tap two dots in center bottom of back roses; pat blend with filbert.
- 2. Top and Front Roses: For top roses, dip 3/8" angular into glaze medium mix; blend into brush. Dip toe into Med. Value and shade starting from corner areas. Walk out float on center bud of flower. Tap float into indentations. Proceed from left bottom petal ending on right side of rose.
- 3. Use 1/2" angular to shade front roses with Med. Value. Start with first petal standing alone. Side-load a little from end of petal to cup. Walk out float halfway onto petal. Smooth with filbert. Add little indentations with tip of angular brush and pat blend in place. Cup is side-loaded from bottom to top; walk out float to center. Use 1/4" angular for tight shading areas.
- 4. Use 1/4" angular to apply Light value to top and front roses. Walk out floats on center bud, front standing petal, and cup of front roses. Start with outer bottom petal for top rose. For front rose, start with first petal. Apply Light values opposite Dark values.
- 5. Use hair dryer to heat set. Repeat entire "First Stage" process for back, top, and front roses.
- 6. Leaves and Rose Buds: Use 3/8" angular and Dark value to shade along bottom of each leaf; use 1/4" angular for smaller leaves. Lighten front ends of leaves with Low Light value. Use filbert to smooth out stroke lines. Heat set. Repeat entire process. Use 1/4" angular and Dark value to shade green rose buds.
- 7. Vines: Make two small piles: use short liner to scoop Low Light value from leaves mix and a little Medium value from vine mix; add extender to both piles for inky consistency. Use brush mix of each to lighten thick vines. Heat set.
- 8. Use #10 filbert to apply Glazing Medium over painted areas. Heat set.
- Second Stage
- 1. Lights and darks will be enforced in same areas, but not as much.
- 2. Back Roses: Apply thin coat Extender over roses. Dip 1/4" angular into glaze medium mix, then dip toe into Low Dark value; blend well on palette. Shade corners; do not walk out, but rather pat blend with filbert. Use tip of brush to apply a little shading in middle indentation of where petals are turned.
- 3. Wipe excess paint onto paper towel; dip dirty brush into glaze medium mix and blend on palette to create sheer tint. Use tint to start from center top of each turned petal and float across to end. Use Light value to lighten along bottom of each turned petal starting from center and working half way across.
- 4. Top and Front Roses: Do not walk out floated color. For top roses, side-load 3/8" angular with Dark value; float corners and pat blend lightly. For front roses, use 1/2" angular to shade with Dark value. Start with first petal standing alone; float a little way from end of petal down to cup. For cup, side-load from bottom of petal to under turned petal. Use 1/4" angular for tight corners. Do not enforce indentations. Use 1/4" angular to apply light value to top and front roses. Heat set.
- 5. To smooth out separation between shaded and highlighted areas, prepare a color glaze: add a little water to Glazing Medium for creamy texture then add a touch of Med. Value. Use #10 filbert to apply mix over top and front roses. Heat set. (Note: Roses will appear a little darker.)
- 6. For top roses, dip toe of 3/8" angular into Very Dark value; deepen corners starting with bottom left petal. For front roses, use 1/2" angular to side-load Very Dark value from top of single petal down to cup. Side-load one side of cup and pat blend. Use 1/4" angular for tight corners. Apply Light value to top and front roses. Heat set.
- 7. Apply Quinacridone Violet glaze over back, top, and front roses. Heat set. For back roses, float Low Light value halfway onto turned petals. For top and front roses, float Light value; apply a little into centers of previously applied light areas from last layer. Heat set.
- 8. Leaves, Rose Buds, and Vines: Apply thin coat Extender over each. Use Dark value to shade back and tight corners of leaves, along one side of vines, and one side of buds. Lighten front parts of leaves, vines, and buds with Light value. Use glaze medium mix and Med. Value to apply glaze over leaves and buds.
- Final Stage
- 1. Back Roses: Dip toe of 1/4" angular into Low Dark value; shade corners and deepen middle indentation of where petals are turned. Lighten turned petals with Light value; only go one-fourth of the way.
- 2. Top and Front Roses: For top roses, dip toe of 3/8" angular in Low Dark value; shade corner areas only. For front roses, use 1/2" angular to shade with Low Dark value. Start with first petal standing alone; float value back to cup. Use toe of brush to float a little value under cup. Smooth out with filbert. Shade corners and tight areas. Use 1/4" angular to apply Light value to top and front roses. Heat set.
- 3. Back, Top, and Front Roses: Dip 1/4" angular into glaze medium mix, then dip into Quinacridone Violet and into Payne Gray; blend on palette for a dark violet. Float mix into indentations, corners, and along side bottom petal near leaves in back roses. Apply side-load to top and front roses. Deepen corners. Smooth with filbert. Use Light value for top and front roses. Heat set. Apply final glaze of Quinacridone Violet over back, top, and front roses. Heat set. Use 1/4" brush to float tint of Payne Gray in a few corners and near leaves on back roses. Enforce Light value just onto flap of turned petals. Apply soft tint of Payne Gray in some tight areas of top and front roses. Apply highlights to center of light value areas applied in last layer.
- 4. If highlight and shading appear to strong, float in soft Quinacridone Violet over shading. Walk brush out to edges of light areas. Smooth with filbert if necessary; colors will appear to melt together.
- 5. Leaves, Buds, and Vines: Apply soft Payne Gray to a few leaves and tight areas. Float on buds and one side of stems. Add highlight value to middle of last layer of leaves and stems. Use #2 filbert and Burnt Umber to tint indentations on a few leaves.
- Inside Box
- 1. Repeat entire process for rose. For rosebud, use 1/4" angular to float High Dark value along left side and bottom. Side-load Low Light value at tip to right side. Heat set. Dip brush into Quinacridone Violet and Payne Gray and side-load bottom of rosebud. Lighten with Light value.
- 2. Use 1/8" angular to apply High Dark value to stem and leaves. Lighten with Low Light value. Heat set and repeat. Glaze with Med. Value. Side-load Payne Gray in some areas to deepen shadows. Lighten with Low Light value. Heat set. Add Light value to finish.
- Small Flower Buds
- 1. Use Mixer and lighten with more Snow White; use #4 filbert to highlight. Add water to Ultramarine Blue for inky consistency; use short liner to add "C" strokes at bottom of buds. Double-load #4 filbert with Low Light value and Med. Value. Use glaze medium mix to thin Burnt Umber to creamy texture; line stems to darken
- Shadow Vines and Buds
- 1. On palette paper, make two inky consistency piles of Burnt Umber and Med. Value from leaves. Use short liner to add additional vines and buds.
- 1. Apply thin application of Glazing Medium over front of box. Let dry. Follow manufacturer's directions to apply two varnish coats.